Staining your floors is a major decision because: 1) Your choice will have a significant impact on the overall appearance of your home, 2) You will live with your choice of color for a very long time, and 3) Once the stain is applied, it is expensive and time consuming to repair it.

Wooden floors staining service

If you’re lucky enough to have an exotic or unique wooden floor such as mahogany, cherry, walnut or maple, you’re probably not supposed to stain them.

First, in their natural state, these types of wood already look beautiful. Most people often try to imitate these types of wood floors when homeowners stain their floors. Second, because of the oils or tight grain in the wood, many of these exotic floors also don’t stain well. There’s a chance you’re not going to be happy with the outcome. Keeping them unstained and enjoying their natural beauty is much better.

You may have a more common type of hardwood floor, such as red or white oak, on the other hand which will need staining to look good.

Over time, some finishes— particularly oil-based finishes— turn oak into a yellowish-orange look that is often associated with a standard floor. If applied to a natural unstained oak floor, other newer water-based finishes may have a washed-out look. If this isn’t the look you’re looking for, or you want to transform the way they look completely, then staining is a great option.

Fortunately, oak floors are perfect candidates for staining, and when using the right techniques, they take stain application extremely well. 

Contact professional Wood Flooring Company In Long Island for more details on stain removal. 


Typically a solvent like mineral spirits and possibly other co-solvents that make the stain workable. Pigments give the color of the stain. Throughout history, pigments such as ocher, umber, etc. have come from the ground and are commonly referred to as “earth pigments” or “organic pigments.” Binder are various resins that secure stain pigment particles to the wood so that the pigment is not pulled off while the floor is being covered. Drying agents: Traditionally dry stains by reacting in the air with oxygen, transforming resin binders from a liquid into a solid. Additional drying agents speed up the stain’s oxygen reaction.


Ideally, the same day we finish sanding, we seal the floor to avoid absorbing moisture from the open wood surface. Apply the stain (if desired) and sealer with an applicator to sheepskin for best results. We make sure the sealer is applied evenly and use sufficient to cover the surface.

We follow these steps after the sealer has dried:

1. Buff the ground with No. 2 (fine) steel wool.
2. With a trackpad, clean and wipe the floor again.
3. Removing all the dust in finish coats is important, or you’re going to have a rough and dirty surface.
4. Using the first of two surface wax coats or other floor finishes, such as polyurethane or varnish.
5. We follow the directions for drying time in coats on the final bowl.
6. We apply the finishing coat.
7. We wait at least 24 hours before moving furniture into the room after the final coat dries.

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